best way to join N Scale code 55 to code 80?

[glakedylan]

greetings model railroading folk

what is the best way, from your experience, of joining code 55 to code 80 N Scale sectional or flex track (the code 80 is preferably the transition piece of Kato Unitrack straight granting access to and from a helix).

i have seen a process of soldering the code 55 rail joiner to the bottom of the code 80 at correct height. have you had success with this method? if so, what did you use for heat sink to keep all plastic free from heat damage?

i have seen plastic rail joiners one end made for code 80 the other for code 55 (not sure they are available in N Scale or just HO Scale) if HO would an epoxsy joining be strong enough?

i am sure there would be other ways as well which i am not thinking of?

i am pretty much invested in a Kato Unitrack helix as the track and the helix kit were purchased a couple years ago, and other than selling them via eBay (which is how i acquired them) it gives me what i need with the best track system for in such a place with low access capability.

all your thoughts and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

have a good one....

Gary

[Jeff]

Well, we know there is now a Unitrack-to-regular other-brand code 80 track. That deals with the perennial gripe of not having flex-Unitrack (to some extent, anyway).

[glakedylan]

Well, we know there is now a Unitrack-to-regular other-brand code 80 track. That deals with the perennial gripe of not having flex-Unitrack (to some extent, anyway).

Yes, Jeff...thanks for your post/reply.

It is that track in particular that I would want to join to code 55 flex track or a code 55 sectional track.

the key still, however, is roadbed (cork or other) to make other brands of track of same height.

thanks again!

peace,
Gary

[chaz]

Gary,

To connect the parts...

1.  Remove the plastic connector from the KATO track.
2.  Remove the metal connector from the Atlas track.
3.  Turn them both upside down on a flat surface.  Granite kitchen tops are great...if Mom doesn't see you.
4.  While holding both tracks down, align and then solder the track ends together.  Extra solder on the outside makes the connection stronger, but don't go overboard with heat or solder.  Plastic melts.

The connection is mechanically weak, so handle with care.  It will be stronger after you ballast the track in it's final position.

I'd wait until you get this far to figure out if you need shims or not. 

Chaz