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Help, Dad under pressure to deliver (well thats what I tell the missus)! ;)

Started by Scott, November 10, 2012, 12:33:39 PM

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Scott

Hello everyone, I could do with some feed back on the attached layout. I plan on using DCC but it has been a loong while since I was involved with trains so any steers would be greatfully received! To give you some back ground 3 years ago we moved house, a box fell open revealing my old hornby/triang stuff and my eldest boy then aged 8 saw it. He now has more trains than I could have ever dreamed of thanks to his granddad (and me)! The wife has decreed that she is fed up with the mess in the garage (he was constantly relaying it and getting frustrated with the old steel track) and "when are you going to finally sort it?". Not one to shy away from a blank cheque, any rail was purchased and this is my first stab.
So, any comments?

BritsTukker

Welcome to the forum, Scott. I too had a box of old Triang rolling stock dating from the late 50's - it doesn't run very well on modern track unless you re-wheel it (which generally works fine).

Your layout has one major problem - the gradients. You've got grades of 6, 7 and even 8%. The general rule of thumb is to keep below 3%.
For the rest it depends on what you want to achieve: looks like you're running passenger traffic only since you have three stations, and there is no continuous run possibility - its all point-to-point traffic. What does your son think of your efforts so far?
If you've got a whole bunch of goods wagons (as I had), then you could do with a marshalling yard with longer sidings. Let us know where you want to go and I'm sure the guys here will provide lots of suggestions!

Enjoy!

Scott

Hi BritsTukker,
The elevation height was just a complete stab in the dark of 12cm, any advice I guess from what you say I've rather over cooked it?! After reviewing you feed back, his lordship has declared interest in a small goods yard, whilst his brother is the arty type and "wants to build a village"! What sort of height should I be looking at?

BritsTukker

In OO gauge you need a minimum of 9cm height difference track-to-track to allow for the thickness of the trackbed you're fixing the upper track to - if you're intending to mount catenary wires, you may need a bit more clearance than the minimum.
Although you have the means to turn round complete trains, as things are if you have steam locos, then you need a means to decouple them from the front of the train, run round and reconnect at the back - you don't need to actually turn the loco round, but you can't push a train from behind - not like DMUs/EMUs which can be driven either way.
Since you intend to operate with DCC, you need to decide how and where you need to uncouple the stock - with a goods yard you can have a lot of fun shuffling trucks around and rebuilding consists (many people seem to have ignored this problem and simply use a sharp stick to uncouple trucks and coaches).
Working signals also really enhance the layout (I've recently added some of the Dapol semaphore signals to mine since they're electrically operated and are conveniently single-hole fixing).
Is the 4 x 2.5m size what you've chosen or is that the limit of the room? A drawing showing space constraints would be useful (e.g. doors/windows which need access).
Get the kids involved with both design and construction - its much more fun for them and less work for you!


RhB_HJ

Hi Scott,

Welcome to AR.

WOW!  A point to point layout!  Now that's what I call a good start.  8) 8)
Hans-Joerg Mueller
Coldstream, BC   Canada

http://www.rhb-grischun.ca

My train videos

Win7Pro 64bit; 8 GB RAM; i5 2.67GHz; 1920x1080 22" display

RhB_HJ

Going with your basic concept, and leaving the different heights as is, I made a few modifications. In order to get a cleaner slate I removed a lot of your scenic features and then added the track. The line going up to +120mm I treat as a branchline that starts at the middle station. There are two bridges where the branch crosses the mainline.
At the endpoints of the lines you need to be able to run around the trains, unless you use push-pull consists.
Hans-Joerg Mueller
Coldstream, BC   Canada

http://www.rhb-grischun.ca

My train videos

Win7Pro 64bit; 8 GB RAM; i5 2.67GHz; 1920x1080 22" display

Scott

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the feedback so far, would it help if I listed the stock "we" plan to run? I am concious that some does not like the smaller radius curves, but be warned it is pretty eclectic from triang Queen Eliabeth to hornby silver seal black five and onto Backmann class 170!!!
BritsTukker,
I will get the maesurements for you, but in short it is at the back of my very wide double garage.
Will write again soon work now requires attention!!!

RhB_HJ

A list of stock would help those who are familiar with the items, sorry, I'm not one of them.  ;) ;) :D
Hans-Joerg Mueller
Coldstream, BC   Canada

http://www.rhb-grischun.ca

My train videos

Win7Pro 64bit; 8 GB RAM; i5 2.67GHz; 1920x1080 22" display

Scott

Okay, so I've found out I should have measured myself, anyway second published attempt after input from boys. Bit of less is more, any input out there? ;)

BritsTukker

Hi, Scott.
Looks a lot more viable now - gradients and heights are doable.
Since you have a mix of stock which includes steam, you still don't have any run-around loops at the stations. I don't know if you're intending to modify your old locs to DCC (there's not much room in things like the Triang Princess class), but you'll need to think about how you handle the situation once a steam loc is at the dead end of a  track and you need to pull the carriages out of the way.
I would suggest building some parts without fixing the track permanently and see just how you can operate in practice before you commit yourself. I would also make those goods sidings as long as possible - you can add another 15cm to most of them before you hit the wall, and every little helps.

Hope the kids appreciate your efforts! Best of luck!