Technique to draw yard flextracks

[dmackrill]

Hi,

New member here.  First post.

I struggled for about a week with 3rdPlanit and couldn't stand it anymore.  AnyRail has been such a joy to use!

However, I am working on a N scale layout trying to draw my yard and I am having trouble creating the ladder so that track spacing is equal and so that I can be assured that each transition from turn out to classification track is created with an easement.

Is there a trick to doing this?

[BritsTukker]

Hi, there. Welcome to the forum!

If there's a trick to this, I haven't found it. I spent a long time drawing parallel tracks using every combination of of pointwork in the libray I use (generally involving an easement and short straight section) then stored them all in a track plan. I now cut-and-paste from that plan whenever I need to repeat it. Since I'm working in HO, my plan won't help you. I quite expect either Mike from CT or RHB_HJ will have a similar file stored away in N.

Good luck with your modelling!

[dmackrill]

Thanks for your reply Brits. I just kept at it and got something use able I think. Your idea of creating a library is a good one!

[C.R. Wagus]

The library idea works well but it can take a good bit of time to create the library.  I have built libraries in N, HO and S scales for myself and others including yard ladders, passing sidings, crossovers, etc.  As I was building them I noticed that switches from different manufacturers can lead to differing parallel track spacing if you don't use a short transition from the switch to the parallel tracks.  My general approach is to first place a single switch at the correct angle given by the manufacturer for that switch, i.e. a 8 degree or 14 degree switch so that the diverging track is connected to a section of horizontal flextrack.  Click on the end connection and select disconnect.  Next rotate the switch the desired complementary angle to get the desired angle for the yard lead, i.e. rotation of 16 degrees will give a 30 degree lead into the horizontal tracks in the new yard.  Next, click on the flextrack about the same distance in from the switch end of the flextrack as the length of the switch and select add a point.  Now click on the end of the short flextrack and bend it until it auto connects to the switch.

This gives you a base section which you can copy multiple times to get your yard with parallel tracks.  Sometimes these actions result in distances between parallel tracks that are larger than desired.  If this happens, I copy the curved section of the flextrack and then choose curve flex one degree at a time until in get a parallel construct which gives me the desired dimensions.  At other times, the construction results a parallel distance which is too small.  If this happens, I simply add a short section of straight track between switches until I get what I want.  Whew, a lot of work to get the desired track configuration!!!!

For this reason, once I get a workable solution I put it in a library file for future use on other layouts.  Over time, my libraries have become extensive.  In response to a posting some time ago in this forum, I have discussed the desirability of posting these libraries for others to use similar to the User Objects Libraries.  I sent my files to David at his request and he promised to investigate this issue.

Are their others out there that think User Track Libraries are a goo idea???

Carl

[dmackrill]

Great info Carl, thanks a ton!

I believe that such libraries are extremely valuable to AnyRail users and would love to see yours and others published!

Don

[RhB_HJ]

Using libraries speeds the process of generating a track plan, however I usually do it in place as required to fit that space. Naturally building a large yard on freshly graded real estate is a different story, but fitting track to existing real estate with the usual limitations makes for visually more interesting results.

[C.R. Wagus]

I sent my yard files to David some months ago and he was kind enough to post them in the examples section of the site.  There are yards in S, HO and N gauge.   I created these some time ago when I first started using AR.  The various manufacturers track libraries vary considerably.  For example if you join two switches end to end and attach a straight section to the switch at the spur end the centerline distance of the parallel tracks will vary by manufacturer even if the same size switch (i.e., #4, #8, etc.) is used.  Additionally, these center line distances will not be consistent with NMRA standards and may be odd distances like 2 3/16" or 1 3/32".  They will rarely be equal to track spacing we may want to use in a certain area such as 1 1/2" or 2".

The answer is to insert a short piece of curved flex track between the spur of the switch and the parallel yard track.  I do this by connecting a piece of straight flex track to the spur.  I then copy my base parallel track the desired track spacing.  I then group this assembly and move it using grid snap so that the end of the parallel flex track near the switch is at a convenient location.  Next, I cut the flex track attached to the switch spur at a point close to the end of my parallel track.  I then move the end point of this short spur section so that it is at the location of the near end of the parallel track.  Smoothen (sic) the curved flex track and you now have a short section of track which can be copied to add more switches and parallel track to complete your yard.  Sometimes it is also necessary to add a short section of straight track between switches to achieve the desired result.

As you can see, this is quite involved and can take some time to complete.  Consequently, as I complete a specific configuration I place it in a file where I can cut and paste it if I want to use it again for another yard, siding, etc.  In one of my earlier forum entries I requested as a wish list item that we have a "track" user object library to make it easier to use both my own creations and those of other users of AR.  What do you guys think?

Carl

[cypherus]

Just going to prop this thread up with a reply that some may find useful.

The fact that you cannot set multiple parallel tracks was something that proved a problem for me in the early days of using AR but a solution was to hand.

SL-E383F track sections from the N Peco fine scale code 55 library, if you take multiples of these and link them as a stack what you end up with is a spacing tool, if you use every track end you get spacing as on the main line, if you use alternate track ends it is similar to the wider spacing in sidings.

It is a shame there is not an adjustable tool that does this job in AR but this I found was a workable alternative.

[dth1971]

Here is what I do.
I'm going to assume you are building a simple yard and not a compound one.

1.  Create your first straight yard track.  Don't worry about the turnout
2.  Right click on that track and select "Add parallel track" about 2" above or to the right
3.  Repeat this process for all your yard tracks
4.  Connect your first turnout to the first flex track
5.  Repeat for rest of tracks.  Don't worry about connecting the up yard tracks together.
6.  Click on the turnout.  Look at the bottom status window with the coordinates.  and slide it left/right/top/down.  Make sure the critical 2" dimension is kept.  For example, your yard is horizontal.  Track 2 is at (3.43, 2.47) (x,y).  You slide it left to (1.8, 2.47)  (x,y)  See how I kept the vertical # (y) the same?
7.  If you need to connect your turnouts together with flex.  Many are already setup to form a perfect #6 yard.
8.  Adjust the ends of your yard to terminate at the same point.  You can do this by clicking on the end connector and holding down [shift] at the same time.  When you move your mouse, it will force the track to remain straight, but will adjust it's length.
9.  The last yard track will require you to drag the connection to the TOP of the straight section of the last turnout.  Once you do this, right click on the flex and select, "Smooth track"

If your yard sits at an angle, build it horizontally then rotate it when done.

Sounds complex, but once you do this a couple times, it becomes really easy.  I can do a 12 track yard with caboose track in under 5 minutes easy.  I can do a double ended 12 track yard in 6 minutes.

If you want to do a compound yard, it's a little more complex, but the same techniques still apply.

Note: For your n-scale, I have no idea what the proper spacing it. We HO layout people usually pick 2" because it gives our fingers room to pick up cars, and it's not that much wider spacing wise than the real thing.

[Maletrain]

In addition to using Peco SL-E383F (double crossover in code 55), you can use double-track sections like Kato Unitrack 20001 as spacing guides.  The Kato section has slightly wider spacing than the Peco section.

[C.R. Wagus]

Hi,

My various yard and siding libraries in N, HO and S scales have been available on the web site under "Examples" for some time.  Libraries from others are also available.  One of the reasons I created these libraries was a desire to achieve parallel track spacing which is consistent with NMRA guidelines and to ensure sufficient clearance for cars and engines.  These guidelines can be found at NMRA.org.

Unfortunately, simply stacking switches may or may not result in the desired spacing (depends on the manufacturer).  If you look at my libraries, I have included spacing from stacked switches and spacing constrained to NMRA standards and possible visually pleasing spacing such as 1 1/2", 2", etc.  This approach results in multiple options but takes considerable time to create.  Not wanting to repeat this process for every new file, I created the libraries found on the web site.  Over the years this has saved me a great deal of time.

Some time ago I suggested that AR include a way to create user track libraries like user object libraries to simplify the process.  Does anyone else see value in this request?

Carl

[Nick the Cabin Boy]

Carl,

I think you would find that it is one of the most requested features!  David has "resisted" for many years, as it is apparently not as simple as one would think, having to do with connection points and the like.

One way around it might be an extension of something that I do.  I once created a plan which involved the use of five controllers, so I had a separate layer for each controller's track and one for its cabling, then different layers for scenic areas, etc.  I deleted everything, then did a Save As and called it a Template.  Every time I start a new plan, I use this template - as it progresses I can delete unwanted layers.  What I could also do, is set up various track pieces/combinations that I use regularly, and place them in the margin (I always have a 100mm margin on my plans, which may not be quite big enough now!).  As I need one of these, I could copy/paste it.

May be worth a try?

Nick the Nomad
Currently settled in Geelong (still in the caravan, though)