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T-Trak Woodland Central

Started by poppy2201, October 10, 2017, 09:55:50 PM

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mrsax2000

You could also swap the 20-040 and #6 switch that is right of Wheatland Milling and replace the 20-010 with 20-000 for a longer passing siding.

poppy2201

Quote from: mrsax2000 on November 13, 2017, 04:54:07 AM
I notice you used a 20-042 (which is double track concrete). So here's your plan using concrete ties where ever possible and super elevated curves. Kato has pieces that fit what you did.

Notice the 20-875s opposite the switches on the double track. These are single straights w/concrete ties. They work nicely in tandem with #6 switches and 20-040 straights.

The track is on a different layer, with your (unaltered) Track layer hidden.  I also added another siding by Wheatland Milling. You would have an extra 20-101, why not use it. :)

A station would fit nicely by Klassen Feed and Supply.

Thanks for your input and time to redo the plan with super elevated concrete pieces.  I had the 20-042's there initially to ensure 33mm track spacing as I was laying out the track and was going to switch it out but didn't.  I also noticed you had some pieces that were spanning 2 modules.  For my intended purposes as a home layout that wouldn't pose a problem except if I decided to switch out that module for another or if I did indeed decide to take modules to a show to connect with others.  I will most definitely play around with your version and see what I can come up with.  It wouldn't take much manipulating to come up with something.  I do like the idea of having super elevated track.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.

mrsax2000

You could swap out the 20-004s for (2) 20-023s, or (1) 20-012 and (1) 20-042.  The 42s are like the 20-040s and might give you the smaller pieces needed to stay within the modules. I really didn't think about disconnecting things, just using the minimum number of pieces.

poppy2201

#18
Quote from: mrsax2000 on November 14, 2017, 03:04:39 AM
You could swap out the 20-004s for (2) 20-023s, or (1) 20-012 and (1) 20-042.  The 42s are like the 20-040s and might give you the smaller pieces needed to stay within the modules. I really didn't think about disconnecting things, just using the minimum number of pieces.

Okay, what I did was to use concrete pieces anywhere I could and where there is not an equivalent I will use 20-875's cut to custom length.  So there will be (2) 20-010's, (3) 20-040's and (2) 20-071's that will be replaced with the custom cuts.  As far as any curves that aren't concrete and no equivalent is available I will paint the ties accordingly so as not to be so noticeable.  I also flipped the end cap modules as I like the arrangement better, it gives the Friesen family an opportunity to go into a town easily for shopping.  Revised plan attached.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.

mrsax2000

You might not need to paint the ties. Just keep the mains concrete. Switches and sidings are fine with wood. If you have a small wood piece next to a switch, on the main, leave it. It may look like part of the switch and you may not even notice the difference.

Kato's single crossover 20-230/231 uses a mix of concrete and wood (on the switch portion).

Google Salt Lake Route. Model Railroader magazine did this layout several years ago. They weathered unitrack and used a mix of concrete and wood. It works. Concrete on the main. Wood through the yard area.  The weathering, which was subtle, is key.


poppy2201

Quote from: mrsax2000 on November 16, 2017, 01:30:16 PM
You might not need to paint the ties. Just keep the mains concrete. Switches and sidings are fine with wood. If you have a small wood piece next to a switch, on the main, leave it. It may look like part of the switch and you may not even notice the difference.

Kato's single crossover 20-230/231 uses a mix of concrete and wood (on the switch portion).

Google Salt Lake Route. Model Railroader magazine did this layout several years ago. They weathered unitrack and used a mix of concrete and wood. It works. Concrete on the main. Wood through the yard area.  The weathering, which was subtle, is key.

I appreciate your input and suggestions but I have decided to stick with wood ties.  I just don't see how super elevated curves will enhance the appearance for a layout this size.  Maybe for a much larger layout with broad, sweeping curves.  Just my two cents.

I have also made some major changes to the layout.  I just wasn't happy with the appearance of a "race track" type oval.  The towns of Woodland and Wheatland have been moved to the end cap modules.  The Friesen Family farm will now occupy the front quad module.  In addition this module will feature off set track running from the front to the back and return to the front before connecting to the right single module.  Some structures are subject to change.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.

mrsax2000

I like it. Switching on one side. Running on the other.

poppy2201

#22
Quote from: mrsax2000 on November 18, 2017, 02:42:03 AM
I like it. Switching on one side. Running on the other.

Thanks mrsax2000.  I have made yet another change.  What I have done is ditched the quad modules and replaced with triples and doubles. This allows for a suggestion by the owner of T-Kits.com (where I will purchase the modules) who suggested that I place the front-to-rear transition on modules so that there is a module break when I get the track to the rear position. This would allow for me to expand the rear-oriented track to a longer segment in the future. I also added a small yard to allow storage of some rolling stock, something that was lacking with my other plans. Hopefully this will be the final as we're approaching the time frame I had set to start building. Of course as I start building I'm sure there will be areas that will have to be tweaked.

Regards,
Charles


Charles J.

mrsax2000

How did you do the plowed field?

poppy2201

#24
Quote from: mrsax2000 on November 19, 2017, 04:29:02 PM
How did you do the plowed field?

I just exported the file as a jpeg and then opened it up in GIMP.  Then using Bucket Fill and the built in texture of stripes just filled it in.  Same with the hills on the left.  I already had some trees filled in with AnyRail and then I did a Bucket Fill with burl wood texture in GIMP to give it a rough look.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.

mrsax2000

I'll have to try that. I've used GIMP for years. Though, I'm no graphic designer.

poppy2201

#26
Okay, this will be the final revision on paper before construction begins.  The target date for beginning construction is around the 3rd or 4th of January due to trips we have planned.  Any changes that need to be made will occur as I am actually constructing it.  The nice thing with T-Trak is that if something doesn't work out or doesn't look right it is easy to change without much trouble or expense.  All of the track is Kato Unitrack except the small yard area which is Atlas Code 80 track.

Since this is primarily a home layout I decided to rotate it 180° to have access to the small yard at the front plus all of the turnouts are now in the front for easy access since they are going to be manual throws for now.

I also would like to add that once construction begins I will post pictures here or you can follow the progress on my blog at http://woodlandcentral.blogspot.com/.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.

poppy2201

Version 12 will be the final version.  I have reverted back to a few of my previous changes.  I am going to go with quad modules for the grain complex and the back scenery quad module.  I wasn't comfortable with breaking up the scenes with smaller modules because it would entail using a lot of smaller track pieces.  Using quads will keep the scene as one complete unit and smoother flowing track.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.

mrsax2000

May I suggest 1 small tweak.  Remove the short straights in the top middle and bring the 2 curves together. Add the straights to 1 of the sides (or use a larger piece in place of 2 small ones).

I think the trains will look better on a longer curve, than a curve-straight-curve.

Just my $0.02.

poppy2201

#29
Quote from: mrsax2000 on January 08, 2018, 08:52:22 AM
May I suggest 1 small tweak.  Remove the short straights in the top middle and bring the 2 curves together. Add the straights to 1 of the sides (or use a larger piece in place of 2 small ones).

I think the trains will look better on a longer curve, than a curve-straight-curve.

Just my $0.02.

Thanks.  Another set of eyes always help.  I made the change and it does look better on paper and I'm sure trains will look better as they run the curves.

Addendum to post:  On the plan you will notice that I used Kato 20026 in two areas.  These are rerailer track and currently not in the Library.

Regards,
Charles
Charles J.