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Topic: My track plan  (Read 2006 times)

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Offline Keesoldscool

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My track plan
« on: March 29, 2018, 08:51:42 am »
Hello,

This is my track plan (picture Baan 050) for the moment. I have a room 3,5 x 2,5 m. Now I'm busy building the table. (picture frame met dragers)

If you have any advice, let me hear.

Grtz,

Kees
« Last Edit: March 29, 2018, 01:47:47 pm by Keesoldscool »

Offline Bob Bryce

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2018, 10:29:10 pm »
Is that a steam radiator under the layout you are building?

Offline David

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2018, 10:54:38 am »
No, it's probably just the standard hot water radiator that you'll find in 99% of the houses in The Netherlands :)

Offline Bob Bryce

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2018, 01:22:18 am »
Seems like it will still build up a lot of heat under the layout unless the layout does not go all the way to the wall.

Offline Keesoldscool

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #4 on: June 23, 2018, 10:29:41 am »
Thanks for all your concern for the radiator, but it's none functional. The room is not heated, only in wintertime, when it's freezing. Then I use a electric radiator to keep the temperature above 10 degrees Celsius. Our house is only heated by a pelletstove in the livingroom and kitchen.
I made a few minor changes in my plan. If there are any suggestion, feel free to post.

Offline Keesoldscool

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2018, 10:24:10 am »
Changed my plan.

- removed all hidden turnouts at level table
- changed a lot of tracks into flex
- changed visible straight tracks into more natural process

I like to have feedback.

Grz,

Kees

Offline Tom Springer

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2018, 09:36:06 pm »
Kees,

That's a lot of track.  Make that a LOT of track.

Some things model railroaders have learned the hard way over the years...

  • Track must be cleaned, by hand, unfortunately, all too often, so if a hand cannot get to a track element, it will get more dirty than one wants, and trains probably would be more likely to stall on that track.
  • Where track cannot easily be reached, that is where derails will most likely occur.
  • Hidden switches are a good source for derails.
Are you running DC or DCC?  How are your turnouts operated?  Switch machines are what type/product?  Based on machine type, do you have clearance for mounting them?  How do you "see" trains operating on hidden track?  Are there provisions for "re-railers" along hidden track to help reduce any impacts of wheels jumping off the track?

Offline Keesoldscool

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2018, 09:42:17 am »
Goodmorning Tom,

First of all, thanks for the feedback.
Cleaning:
I know cleaning is necessary. I made a few arrangements to make it possible. My table - level 0 - doesn't have table legs. It is fitted on the walls at 1 m high. All levels below 0 are hanging on the table. The lowest is 55 cm above the floor. Only where tracks are, there is plywood to support. So all the inside circles are open. I can roll with a home made plank on weels under the table and sit up in the middle between the tracks. From that position it's possible to clean all the tracks. Level 1 can be reached by removing the front of the plasterwalls (Spörle) which will be fitted between level 0 and 1.

Derailing:
Derailing is always a struggle. But according to the subscibtion above, it must be easy to fix. The most difficult part are the hidden tracks on level 0. I am using Märklin k-tracks on level 0 and 1 and going to move 1 rail out of the track for 20-25 cm and fit the rail of the next track in the open space. So the rail will look like bricks in a wall. I did a few test with that technique and so far no derailing. An advantage is that railjoiners are not necessary. Just a small piece if polystyrene is enough. The test was on a radius of 360 mm.

Running:
I am a huge Märklinfan and am running mfx.

Turnouts:
All my tracks below level 0 wil be Märklin c-tracks and the turnouts will be operated with the Märklin switchmachine and decoders, so clearance for mounting isn't a problem.
For the turnouts (Märklin k) on level 0 and 1 there are two options. The first is the original switchmachine and then mounted under the table with the special tool 7548. The other are servo's. There is enough space for both possibilities.

Operating trains on hidden tracks:
The only space I can not see the trains is the hidden track between level 0 and 1. I am intending to fit a LED-string inside and using a dashcam, so I can see what's happening. But I don't expect any trubbles there through the technique of tracklaying. It's just out of precaution.
Below level 0 I only have to step backwards or bend my knees for a overview.

Leveling tracks:
On all of the table I fit a layer of special insultioncork of 4 mm. Below level 0 I just lay down the tracks. No screws, no glue or what so ever. On level 0 and 1 is am going to use FIX-gleisbettung. It is a sticky, removable stuff. It is flexible and therefor very good to level the tracks.

Before I restarted this hobby, I did a lot of research. I visited Hamburg and Leer, about 5 hobbyclubs, more than 20 individual persons, several markets and spend hours at the internet. But I am still learning and like feedback.
My goal is to finish my table this year and then start laying tracks the two next years (if the budget alows it 8)). After laying the tracks I will go on with the scenery and start to run my train with i-Train.

Offline Yamakai

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2018, 11:13:19 am »
Hi
If your storage tracks are only going to hold train sets and not loose rolling stock, then they do not need to be level.  If those tracks only have trains that go in one direction then they can also have a gentle slope going down towards the head of the train.  Thus when starting, the weight of the train will help to get it rolling and reduce the number of times that a train sticks and needs a nudge.

I tried many techniques to reduce track noise in tunnels and hidden areas.  The most effective was laying on the baseboard, a quilted material available cheaply from fabric shops / outlets.  It is constructed from 2x layers of material with a foam type filling and available in different thicknesses. Only needs to be 3 or 4 mm thick and glued down.  The track is then held in place using a caulking compound.

Perhaps do a curved mock up of part of your spiral grade to see how your long trains handle it as I see you do have plenty of room to stretch the spiral to reduce the gradient if necessary.

The longer entry to the storage tracks do have some 'S' bends through the turnouts - I hope this will not be a problem with your rolling stock.

An interesting design.

Bob

Offline Keesoldscool

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #9 on: August 12, 2018, 08:56:34 pm »
Hi Bob,

Thnks for yoyr feedback and advices.

About the storage tracks:
The storage tracks will be separated in at least two blocks and at the ouside possible 3 or 4 blocks. That's the reason why I made it level.

About track noice:
I prefer cork. I did use it in the past and I am satisfied on the noice reduction. The plywood of the table does rest on a strip of neoprene and is not screwed to the supportbeams. When al the cables and other stuff is fitted at the bottom of the table, this will be covered with foam rubber. All the plywood below level 0, will have a layer of cork (4 mm) on the top and a layer of polystyrene (5 mm) at the bottom. I hope that it will give a satisfying noice reduction.
The stuff you described doesn't ring a bell. I am Dutch and don't know the excisting of it.

About the curves of the spiral:
I can assure you it works perfect. My trains won't be that long (max. 1,5 m) because I don't like the view of a train coming out of a turn and simultaneously turn into another.
I even tested it with a slope of 1 mm and it also worked perfectly.

About the 'S'-bends:
I also hope this will not be a problem. As far as tested it did work without a problem. There was only one dereailment, caused by a little screw accidentaly dropped on the track.

Thanks for the compliment about the design. As I wrote before, I did a lot of reseach, including testing. But My plan isn't perfect and I don't know everything, so keep me posted with ideas, tips, tops, etc.

Grz,

Kees

Offline Keesoldscool

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Re: My track plan
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2018, 09:05:10 am »
Smal changes in level 0 and a strange dead-end at the lower storage tracks. But very handy. It will be used for the possibility of parking train-combinations in transparent containers for storage outside the track. The reason  to store this way is keeping the traincombinations free from dust.

I did some experiments in reducing noice. I used different kind of insulation: cork, XPS, PS and a kind of woodfiber stuff (green), used in the Nederlands under a floor covered with laminate or wood. A used the same combination and a decibel-meter. I found the next ranking: best the woodfiber, second cork, third XPS and last PS. The woodfiber has a disadvantage, because it unravels, with is not recommended for the locomotivs.
So, my choise for insulation is definitive cork.

My supplier showed me something for fixing tracks on cork, which also is handy for putting ballast around the tracks. It's called: Fix, gleisbettungsmittel (- Video -
I wonder if somebody knows this stuff, did use it and want to share the experience.

Grz.

Kees