News:

Due to heavy spamming attempts on this forum, automatic registration has been disabled. We will approve registration requests as quickly as possible (unless you're a spammer of course :) )

Main Menu

Final future build

Started by Celladwella2020, April 09, 2020, 05:40:28 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

Celladwella2020

Hope to build this in the near future. Please leave any suggestions you think may be useful. I'm still waiting for my track to come in. May take some time with covid-19 delaying deliveries.

BritsTukker

Can you post the .any file for the layout. From the .jpg we can't see if you have height clearamce for the crossing tracks.

The Track Planner

Concerns...
First, if your double crossover is at zero elevation and as it appears the center track heading to the right needs to rise enough to crossover the lower track, you may a grade issue. From the picture it appears you have approximately 36" between the double crossover and the red track crossing over the black track. If this is correct, and you have the rise 2", which is a good height for N scale, that would put the grade at over 5%! Not good!

Second, in my opinion, is it never a good idea to place an elevated track between two tracks that appear to be at zero elevation, it might look okay on the monitor, but in the real world it would be hard to build. You need more separation (centerline to centerline) between the three tracks, to make it work correctly.

Those are the two biggest issues I see.

Also, you might want to think about trying to design the yard as double ended using compound switching ladders at each end. Would make the yard much easier to work.

Celladwella2020

A little different from the first draft but my grandson seems to like it. Now for the wiring. Do I need to use all the isolation points? I am going DCC so I am thinking the isolation points will not be needed. I haven't a clue. Please advise how to go about wiring this up. Must have to use auto reverse sensor(s)?

BadBanana

#4
Yes whereever you have a reversing loop (and you have more than one) then you need isolators to prevent short circuits between the rails where they loop back on themselves, and you need reverse sensor (often called a reverse loop module) or some other way of reversing the polarity in the loop in order to prevent a short circuit as the loco and anything else with metal wheels move across the isolator gap.  This is especially important for locos since they generally pick up power from more than one wheel on each side of the loco, so they take some significant time to cross the gap.  The basic principle is that the main part of the reverse loop is isolated at each end, and as the loco enters the loop, the polarity of the wiring in the loop is automatically switched to match the adjoining track. 

To be honest, this is probably not the place for a detailed discussion on this, since the topic is not specific to AnyRail, but is a very common problem in railway modelling.  A quick google search found this page which gives quite a good explaination, although there are many other resources on the subject.

https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/reverse-loops-model-trains-2382604

mrsax2000

Echoing other comments. You need more track length for trains to go up/down and pass over each other.  Look at other plans where this happens. A steep incline is bad for trains.  2.5% grade is good max to consider. To calculate a grade, it's rise (height)/run (length). If you need 1.5" clearance between overpass and track, if you travel 60" (5ft) to gain height, grade = 2.5% = 1.5/60.  Of course, 1 track can go down and the other can go up and you can reduce the length and maybe grade. Both Kato and Woodland Scenics sell incline packages. Check those out to see how much length they take to do it.